Follow our Jeruselem Pilgrims 2009

Today we bid goodbye to Tiberias and the Galilee region. Then we traveled to the ancient Decapolis city of Bet Shean. This is a remarkable place, and I’m sure you could spend several days exploring the excavations. Several people climbed all the way to the top of the tel. There is an old dead tree there, and it was in the movie “Jesus Christ Superstar.” It was where Judas hung himself.

After that we traveled to Bethany (“bet” means house and “hany” means “poor” in Hebrew, so Bethany in the House of the Poor.) We stopped for lunch along the way, and everyone got to take pictures of themself riding a camel.

Camel

At Bethany we went down into Lazarus’ tomb. It was VERY steep to go down the steps, but awe-inspiring to know we were in the very tomb from which Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead. I bought a stole in Bethany that I saw last year and kicked myself all year for not buying. It is much different than any other I have – it is black. I will use it on Good Friday.

Then we rode up to Jerusalem to Mount Scopus and saw the beautiful gold dome atop the Dome of the Rock for the last time (at least for this year!). We took our final pictures overlooking the Holy City and went to our farewell dinner. This is always held at a nice restaurant, and is a gift to the group from Betty Ann and ACTS. If you EVER want to travel internationally, you should look in to using ACTS, - I wont use anyone else. There was a surprise in store for this night – we celebrated Laura’s birthday. We were originally supposed to travel later in the month, and she was going to turn 10 in Jerusalem. She was disappointed when that didn’t happen, but when the lights went out and everyone started singing “Happy Birthday,” the smile came back to her face. They brought her out her own chocolate cake, and she ate it all! She got a card from the whole group, some presents from Mom and Diane and some others, and a coupon from me for what she really wanted – an American Girl doll. She had a hard time containing herself during the long 13-hour flight home, knowing what waited for her.

Mt. Scopus

We went back to Tel-Aviv, endured the relentless Israeli security, and came home with a lifetime of memories. WOW! What a pilgrimage!

Golgatha

Jesus' tomb

Jesus' tomb

Today we started out on the Mount of Beatitude.  Diane did the reading from Matthew 5.  Three years ago when I brought Taylor with me he had such am powerful experience here.  Today I went to the same place inside the church where he and I were, and I remembered his time alone with me.  It is such a privilege and a joy to be able to take a trip like this with just one child.  I was moved to tears, and when Laura asked me about them, all I could tell her was that sometimes a father’s heart is heavy.

Diane reading the Beatitudes

 

All of our touring today was around the Sea of Galilee.  The shape is like a harp, and it gets most of its water from the Jordan River – 70%.  The rest is from springs around it. 

The Bible talks of Mary Magdalene, but she was actually Mary from Magdalena.  People did not have first and last names as we do.  The area around the Sea of Galilee was the most fertile region in the Roman Empire.   In the 1980’s the sea was at its lowest level in many years, and two brothers from a Kibbutz found what is now called the “Jesus Boat.” -  A boat that dates from the time of Jesus, and is so large that very few its size would have existed. We went and saw the actual boat, and it was awe-inspiring to know that Jesus himself probably rode in this very same boat!

Jesus boat

Then we went to Tabtha.  Tabtha is not mentioned in the Bible, but it is the place where the multiplication of the loaves and fishes took place.  From there we went to Saint Peter of Primacy, where Jesus appeared to the Disciples after his resurrection.  They were out fishing all night and caught nothing.  In the morning, as they approached shore, they saw someone standing on the shore who told them to cast their nets off the other side.  This was a common way of fishing here – someone would stand on a high rock and could see the water swell where the fish were.  The Gospel says they caught 153 fish.  This is the oddest number in the Bible.  Most biblical numbers are multiples of 7, 10 or 12.  153 were the known number of fish in the ancient world, and represented what Jesus told the first disciples he called when he told them they would become fishers of men.

St. Peter of Primacy

On to Capernaum.  This town is one of the most important places for Jesus ministry.  He preached in the temple here, and it was here that he healed Simon Peter’s mother in law. 

After lunch we took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee.  Those that went last year know what an incredible spiritual experience this is.  We went out to the middle of the sea, then cut the motor and sat in total silence as we looked all around the region at the places where Jesus ministered. Our silence was broken by our new friends from the Church of the Redeemer in Elizabeth City, as they led us in two Taize songs.  Then we celebrated Holy Communion on the boat.  It is a special privilege for me to celebrate communion in so many places in the Holy Land, - from Qumran to Nazareth to Bethlehem, to the Garden of Gethsemane to the Sea of Galilee.  To have my sister Diane, my mother and my darling Laura with me makes it that much more special.

Our last stop was Yardenit, the site on the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized by John.  Here we remembered our baptism.  As always, it was a spiritual high for those who re-newed their baptismal vows, and again for me, to be able to lead them through it.  WOW!!!! What a trip.

Tomorrow we leave Tiberias.  We will go to the ancient Decapolis city of Bet Shean, then to Bethany and Lazarus tomb.  We will end our pilgrimage at the garden tomb with a final service of Holy Communion, and then on to Tel-Aviv and the LONG flight home, with a lifetime of memories.

After an early morning wake-up call we left Jerusalem.  It was quite a stormy night.  The wind was so bad it blew up a glass door on the front of our hotel, so a huge draft was going through the entire hotel.  In our room the wind howled through the balcony door all night.  It was cold and rainy when we left Jerusalem, but the weather improved as we headed north.  Israel is called the land of milk and honey for a reason – milk in the south for all the goats and cattle, and honey in the north for the green flowers and vegetation. Today we traveled from the milk to the honey. 

Caesaria

 

Our first stop was Caesarea Martima, or Caesarea by the Sea.  It was built by Herod the Great to honor the new Caesar – Augustus.  Later, Pontius Pilate built a temple to honor the emperor Tiberias.  A stone was found telling about Pilate’s building, and is the only know record of this man outside of the biblical story.  At Caesarea, the archaeology and history come together.

 

Rock telling of Pilate

A couple of miles down the road are the remains of a roman aqueduct.  This one goes from Caesarea to the Crocodile River.  Last year we were here and took some family pictures.  About a week after we got home the Sports Illustrated swim suit issue came out, and the photo shoot took place in the same spot.  This year there were no swim suit models, but the Med was the roughest I have ever seen it.  There was a kite boarder in the waves, and we watched as several times he was lifted 50-60 feet in the air by the wind before coming back down on the waves.

 

We visited a Druze town.  The Druze are a Christian sect, with “secret” beliefs and practices.  We ate lunch at a Druze restaurant.  Napoleon came here in 1799 and learned some of their secrets.  In order to be a “true” Druze your mother has to be Druze, just as to be a true Jew, your mother has to be a Jew.

Then it was on to Mount Carmel, where Elijah challenged the prophets of Baal.   “Carmel” is Hebrew for God’s vineyard.  Mt. Carmel separates the coastal area from the Jezreel valley.  Here is located the oldest winery in Israel.  It was established by the Rothschild family in the late 1890’s to provide a place of employment for new Jews returning to the Holy Land.  David Ben Gurion, the first prime minister of Israel worked here as a teenager.  Elijah is very important to the Israelites.  Queen Jezebel wanted to have Baal worship in the kingdom, and Elijah wanted to stop it.  He persuaded her husband, King Ahab, to assemble both people and prophets of Baal on the top of Mt Carmel for a contest.  The first one to invoke fire from heaven on an altar they built would win.  The Baal prophets couldn’t do it, but Elijah did, and then he slew about 450.

 

Elijah

 

Then it was on to the tel of Megiddo.  “Har Megiddo” is where we get the word Armageddon.  The passageway between Egypt and Babylonia had to go through Megiddo.  Whoever controlled Megiddo controlled the trade route and the taxes, so it was very important.

We then went to Nazareth.  It is the biggest Israeli Arab city.  The Church of the Annunciation was built by Tiberias over the site of Joseph and Mary’s house.  It is the biggest church is Israel. 

 

Grotto built over the site of Mary & Joesph's Home

 

Finally it was on to Cana, where Jesus performed his first miracle, turning water into wine.  Hospitality is VERY important in the Arab culture.  (I have been invited into a Bedouin tent, and one cannot refuse their hospitality, for it is the greatest insult.  When they offered me a cup of their coffee, I had to accept it.  It stayed with me for days…..)  Most likely the family who was hosting the wedding ran out of wine, which would have been the gravest insult.  So Mary asked Jesus to help them.  In Israel most weddings take place on Tuesday, and it is known as twice good Tuesday.  In the book of Genesis, “good” is mentioned twice on Tuesday but only once on all other days.  We renewed our wedding vows today in Cana, and also celebrated communion.  After a long and tiring day, we made it to our final hotel, the Golden Tulip on the shore of the Sea of Galilee.  After dinner Laura, Diane and I walked around the board walk next to the Sea.  Tomorrow we travel all over the Galilee region.

 

Today we started out on the Mount of Olives.  We awoke to a cold and rainy day.  Rain only comes to Israel from about mid October to mid march – never any other time.  They say here that every day of rain is a blessing.  This year the rain has been far below normal, and that will cause problems later in the year. 

Mount of Olives        

  Ossuaries (bone boxes)

Discovered when Palm Sunday path was excavated. Jews would put the dead into a tomb until the body decayed, then remove the bones, put them in a box, and prepare the tomb for the next family member.

From the mount of olives we walked the Palm Sunday path. We ended up in the Garden of Gethsemane  (The word “gethsemane” means “olive press.” ).  We prayed at the Rock of Agony, where Jesus prayed “Lord not my will be done, but yours.” 

Garden of Gethsemane          Church built over
                                                                                             where Jesus wept

 

Dome of the Rock where Jesus wept

We visited the House of Caiaphis, the high priest, and went down into the very dungeon where Jesus was held after he was arrested. 

After that we went to Bethlehem.  (Bethlehem means “house of bread”).  We visited the Church of the Nativity, built over the birth place of Jesus.  It was a very spiritual moment for all as we stood at the 14 pointed star and realized we were standing in the very place where HE was born. 

Church of Nativity          Catholic Chapel of the
                                                                                           Church of the Nativity

Nativity Grotto               14 Pointed Star
                                                                                             where Jesus was born

Then we went to the shepherd’s field, and saw where the angels announced his birth.  After a final day of shopping we returned to the hotel.  Tomorrow we leave Jerusalem and travel to Galilee.

 

Icon in the Church of Nativity                              

Eastern Gate...it is sealed shut...only the Messiah can open it.                            

Jewish Cemetery close to the Eastern Gate so they will be the first to see the Messiah

Today we entered the Old City. My FAVORITE place on earth. I always feel as if I have “come home” when I am here. We entered through St. Stephen’s Gate, into the Moslem Quarter.

First we visited the pool of Siloam, where Jesus healed the man who had been there for years.  Then we went and visited the Church of Saint Anne, named after Mary’s mother.  This church is over 1000 years old, and has perfect acoustics.  It never ceases to amaze me how beautiful hymn singing sounds, even by those like me that cannot sing.  We sang Amazing Grace and How Great Thou Art, and sounded like professionals. 

Last year when we were here, we ran into a French monk, dressed in a leather jacket and crocs. Clara fell in love with him, and all the kids thought he was “cool.” He was there again this year, and remembered Laura! We took pictures with him and Diane, Mom, Laura and me. 

Via Dolorosa (You can carry a cross)               

Church of the Holy Sepulcher 

(side note: Six religions control the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. All six have to agree to do anything with the church.     This ladder has been there since 1860 because all six have not agreed.)

Then we walked the Via Dolorosa, or “way of the cross.” This is the journey Jesus took after he was condemned.  For many Christians, this is the highlight of their pilgrimage.  It ended at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which is the traditional site of the burial of Jesus. 

Burial Place of Jesus         

  Split Rock          

Where Jesus was laid and where he rose from                                                 

At lunch time, I took Mom, Diane and Laura to meet my friend Moshe, a rabbi who owns a shop along with his brother in the Jewish Quarter.  Moshe and I are brothers of a different mother, and think alike in many respects, including our deep belief in respecting each other’s pathway to God. I think we are destined to do something together in the future. Last year I gave him a pen I made, and he used it to sign a copy of a book he wrote, which he gave me. This year we did it again, and I gave him another pen, and he signed his newest book. We talked on the steps of his shop, and without sounding conceited – if Christians and Jews could learn to dialogue like we do, the world would know much more peace!

After lunch we went to the Western Wall, or Wailing Wall. As our guide Luay was explaining it, I noticed a remote controlled robot working with a package. I thought perhaps it was practice, but no, this was for real. Someone had left something near the wall, and the robot went and got it, and then exploded it – THREE times!  It was loud and quite a shock to all, but turned out to be nothing. After a 30 minute delay, we were able to go to the wall. Jews believe that if you write a prayer and put it into the wall, it gets closer to God. Three people from Saint Luke’s wrote prayers for me to bring, and if they are reading this, please know that your prayers were put into the wall today, and I prayed for each of you as I did it.

Doug's mother and sister at the Wailing Wall

We shared communion in the Upper Room, where Jesus first instituted the Lord’s Supper. It was a VERY meaningful time for all of us, and after a long and tiring day, we went back to the hotel. Tomorrow we tour more of Jerusalem, and then on to Bethlehem.

Alley in Jerusalem         

Doug's Mom getting "arrested" by Israeli Forces    

The dome
                                        

Still in One Peace, 

Doug

Today we went back to Israel from Egypt. It was a LONG border crossing, as they were training new agents. Getting into Israel is difficult no matter what. I was stopped for a long time, and they checked and re-checked my bags over and over. They spot all metal and liquids. They scanned my chalice and grape juice 3 times! Even though it delayed us a while, it was okay, because once you get into Israel you feel safe, knowing Israeli security is ever vigilant against any and all possible threats.

We visited Qumran today, where the Dead Sea scrolls were found. 2000 years ago the Essenes lived in a sect on the edges of the Dead Sea, and copied the sacred texts, as well as wrote their own writings. When Rome began to invade, they hid their writings in clay jars. They remained there until the year 1947 when they were discovered by a Bedouin shepherd. The Jews consider this a miracle, as it happened the year their state hood was being discussed. Every book of the Bible except Esther was found, and they are the oldest known biblical manuscripts, by over 1000 years. The most important was the book of Isaiah, and it is letter for letter EXACTLY the same as the text we already had. UNREAL.

Dead Sea Scroll           Book of Isaiah

After Qumran we swam in the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on earth, and nothing lives in it. BUT, it is rich in minerals, and the mud from the bottom sells for more than $40 a pound. You cannot sink in the Dead Sea. You walk out a ways, sit down, and float! Most of us went in and had a grand time! I totally covered my entire body with black mud, and many people took my picture, which may end up some where I don’t; want, but such is life!

After the Dead Sea, we began my favorite journey on the planet. The scriptures always speak of “going up” to Jerusalem. That is because, no matter which direction you approach from, you go up. Jerusalem is the city set on a hill. We played the hauntingly beautiful song “Jerusalem” (if you’ve never heard it, Google it or go to I-tunes and search for it). Playing that song as we go into Jerusalem is THE most spiritual event for me. I never tire of it, and every time I enter the Holy City, it is just as special as the first time. Last year was the highlight for me, since Clara and all my children were with me. This year was special in its own right, as Laura, my mother and sister Diane were with me. We checked into out hotel, and have a VERY full day in the Old City tomorrow.

Mt. Sinai and St. Catherine's Monastery

Mt. Sinai

Today our wake up call came at 1:15AM!  Why even go to sleep you ask?  Because of what lie ahead.  Today we climbed Mt. Sinai.  After we got off the bus we had about a ¾ mile walk to the camel station.  Almost everyone chose to ride a camel for the first part of the climb, but some walked.  The camel ride was 2 hours long!  It was pitch darkness, but a totally clear night.  With absolutely no ambient light, every star was visible, and those and the moon were breath taking.  One of the most vivid memories I will have is looking ahead of me and seeing the other camel riders silhouetted against the night sky --- BEAUTIFUL!  It was impossible to take a picture, so it will have to live on only in the memories of my mind.  When we reached “the steps,” we had to dismount from the camels, as they could not climb any further. 

Mt. Sinai

Only about 1/3 of us went the rest of the way.  They call them the steps, but really it is just a rocky path – VERY treacherous, very steep, and a very difficult climb.  My daughter Laura and I made it to the summit about a half hour before sun-up.  We waited and waited, and FINALLY the sun rose.  WOW!!!!!! Once it started, it just kept climbing.  I have never seen a sunrise so magnificent, and can not think of anyone who I would rather have shared this moment with, other than Clara.  It took almost 2 hours to walk down, and the walk down was not easy.  Two of our group experienced some real difficulty getting down, but finally we all made it.

Sunrise over Mt. Sinai

Then it was off to Saint Catherine’s monastery.  This was built by Queen Helena, the mother of Constantine.  Inside grows what is purported to be the direct root descendant of the burning bush Moses saw.  The bush itself is over 1500 years old.  Many people have tried to take a clipping and grow it elsewhere in the world, but no one has even been successful.  It really is quite a place.

Burning Bush

Then we went back to Taba for the night.  We return to Israel in the morning.

Taba

Everyone finally made it to Jericho about 10:30 last night - a 24 hour trip for most, 36 for some.  After what turned out to be a relatively sleepless night, we awoke at 6am and had breakfast at the hotel, then it was on to the journey.  Our first stop was the Sycamore tree that Zaccheus climbed.  There is a tree in Jericho that dates to the time of Jesus, and many scholars believe it is this tree that Zaccheus climbed. 

 

Tree of Zaccheus

 

After that we were on to the Mount of Temptation, where Jesus was tempted for 40 days at the start of his ministry.  We then traveled to Masada which is a VERY impressive fortress,  built by Herod the Great, high above the dead sea.  The Jewish settlers there committed suicide to die as free men, rather to live in slavery.  It was a moving experience, especially sharing communion atop this fortress. 

 

Mount of Temptation

 

After lunch we made the long trip to Eliat and Taba, and crossed into Egypt.  We followed along the Dead Sea and then the Red Sea.  It is a surreal experience to look over and say "that is Jordan," and later "that is Saudi Arabia." 

 

Red Sea and Saudi Arabia (across the water)

 

Tomorrow we have a rare late morning wake up and free time in Taba.  In the afternoon we will go to St Catherine's monastery, and the next day we will get up at 2 am to climb Mount Sinai and watch the sun come up.

 

 

Tonight some us watched a belly dancer and a whirling dervish.  The dances and dancers were simply amazing, and we all agreed we had never seen anything at all like it.

 

Whirling Dervish

We had hoped to post pictures along with this blog - they will have to be done in the future - my camera card is too big for the computer, and Laura's is not recognized.  So words will have to do.  All in all, this trip underscores one of my mottos - "blessed are the flexible, for they shall not be bent out of shape."

 

~ The Pilgrims

 

(Doug was able to post pictures to his Facebook and Megan was able to add them to the post after the fact. Enjoy!)